|Santa Maria Assunta, Torcello - Photo: Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam|
Ristorante Villa '600 (just across the canal from Cipriani) was really quite good, and very reasonably priced. And, he was right in both courts.
|I think I would like whoever lives here... aprons upon aprons! Must be a good cook!|
|The colorful houses of Burano|
Ravioli Bicolori al Salmone e Pistacchi
Golden Pasta Dough
2/3 cups all-purpose flour
1 large egg
Combine the flour and salt in the bowl of a food processor fitted with a blade attachment. Pulse a few times to combine. Add the egg and process for 30-60 seconds until the dough comes together into a ball. Wrap dough in plastic wrap or waxed paper and let rest for 20-30 minutes.
Red Pasta Dough
2/3 cups all-purpose flour, plus extra if needed
1/4 cup tomato paste
Combine the flour and salt in the bowl of a food processor fitted with a blade attachment. Pulse a few times to combine. Add the tomato paste and process for 30-60 seconds until the dough comes together into a ball. If it is too wet or sticky, add more flour (1 tablespoon at a time) and process again. Wrap dough in plastic wrap or waxed paper and let rest for 20-30 minutes.
Filling for the Ravioli
3/4 cup best-quality whole milk ricotta cheese
1 egg, separated
1 tablespoon heavy cream
small handful of arugula or parsley leaves
freshly ground pepper
Blend the ricotta, egg yolk and cream together in a small bowl. Finely chop the arugula or parsley and add it to the cheese mixture, incorporating thoroughly. Season with salt and pepper.
Assembling the Ravioli
Roll out both colors of pasta dough into wide flat pieces. (I use an Atlas pasta machine and start at level 1 and roll to a thin level 6.) Cut each long piece into a 12-inch length and stack gold and red in separate piles, with waxed paper between each layer; cover each pile of pasta with a damp towel.
Whisk the egg white in a small bowl to break it up.
Take one layer of golden pasta and place over a ravioli mold, and place the white form on top to make indentations. (If you don’t have a mold, separate directions follow in blue.)
Place a teaspoonful of filling in each indentation. Using a pastry brush, paint the egg white around all the edges and between each lump of filling. Cover with the red dough and, using a rolling pin, roll over the mold to seal and cut off edges. Turn over the mold to release ravioli onto a sheet on a baking sheet lined with waxed paper. Repeat process until you have 30 ravioli. Place baking sheet in the freezer while you make the sauce.
If you don’t have a mold, simply place a sheet of dough on the counter that has been dusted with flour. (The truth? I used the mold because I saw it in the pantry the other day – I usually just make then on the counter!)
Neatly place filling, a teaspoon at a time, on your gold dough in two rows of five. Using a pastry brush, paint the egg white around all the edges and between each lump of filling. Cover with the red dough. Start by pressing down with your thumb in the spaces between the lumps of filling to meet and seal the lower layer of dough, then press edges, doing your best to eliminate any air pockets without squishing the filling.
Using a pastry crimper, pizza wheel, or a long sharp knife, trim edges, then cut between each raviolo to make ten 2-inch square ravioli. Place trimmed ravioli on a baking sheet lined with waxed paper. Repeat twice more until you have 30 ravioli. Place the baking sheet in the freezer while you make the sauce.
Salmon and Pistachio Sauce
8 ounces salmon (with or without skin)
extra virgin olive oil
freshly ground pepper
1/2 cup white wine
2 tablespoons butter
1/4 cup shelled and blanched unsalted pistachios, roughly chopped
Once you have placed the ravioli dough in the freezer, preheat the oven to 400°F. Place salmon in a small baking dish skin side down, and drizzle with olive oil. Season with salt and pepper and roast for 10-12 minutes. You want the salmon undercooked.
Place white wine in a medium-size skillet. Shred undercooked salmon into the wine and bring to a simmer. Let simmer for a few minutes to finish cooking the salmon, and to reduce the wine a little. Set aside.
Putting the Dish Together
Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Generously salt the water once it is boiling and take ravioli from the freezer and gently place into the boiling water. Cook for 3-4 minutes. While pasta is cooking, reheat the salmon and stir in the butter to emulsify the sauce, being careful not to purée the salmon. Using a slotted spoon, gently lift and drain the ravioli and gently place them on heated serving plates, placing half the ravioli golden side up, and the other half red side up. Spoon some of the sauce over each plate and top with chopped pistachios. Serve immediately.
Serves 4 (makes 30 ravioli).
Note: Leftover pasta dough and trimmings can be rolled, cut into any shape you like, and frozen for future use.